Indonesia journey: democracy and diversity: Jakarta

An urban sprawl of over 10 million people, Jakarta represents the complexity and vibrancy of the archipelago. It's the heart of a nation gearing up for its second parliamentary elections since the end of a 32-year dictatorship.

It's also a young nation with an average age of 27. Despite over 40 parties competing for 560 parliamentary seats, many voters—especially a new generation come of age since the demise of Suharto—remain sceptical about the real nature of Indonesia's democracy, in which many of the faces and forces of the Suharto years continue to dominate the political sphere.

In this first feature, producer Anita Barraud travels across the city from the port district of North Jakarta to the South Jakarta malls. She looks at fashion Muslim style, walks through the rubble that was once home to over a thousand families, and talks with young people across the city.

Indonesia journey: democracy and diversity: Aceh

For more than 30 years the Free Aceh Movement sought independence for this tiny province on the northern tip of Sumatra. The conflict between the forces of the central Java-based government and the supporters of the independence movement has waxed waned between open guerrilla warfare. There's been sporadic violence since 1976 with little scrutiny from the outside world. All of that changed on 26 December 2004, when the Boxing Day tsunami claimed more than 150,000 lives. It was then the world discovered Aceh had also suffered decades of war.

One of the consequences of this sudden international attention was the signing of a peace agreement between the Indonesia central government and the battle-fatigued independence movement. Aceh is now held up as a model of autonomy for other restive provinces such as Papua, as well as more distant countries where regional minorities seek independence from centralised state authority, such as the Tamil region of Sri Lanka and parts of sub-Saharan Africa.

Over far too many cups of Aceh's famous thick black coffee, Radio National's Anita Barraud explores how peace and democracy are working in a province that has endured both a dictatorship and a long running war.

Indonesia journey: democracy and diversity: West Timor

Overshadowed by its famous and now independent neighbour East Timor, West Timor is the poorest region of Indonesia, its largely agricultural economy laid waste by years of drought.

Part of the province of Nusa Tengarra Timur, West Timor has a fabled history as the Sandalwood Island, and for hundreds of years was a valuable source of what was once known as 'wooden gold'. But sandalwood is no longer the valued commodity it once was, and the island's dry hills lack the touristic appeal of its tropical neighbours further to the west, Bali and Lombok.

In this third part of this ABC RN - BBC World Service co-production Anita Barraud discovers malnutrition that rival parts of sub-Saharan Africa, visits farms in the north and discusses ancient clan ties with the descendant of a king.

Indonesia journey: democracy and diversity: Bali

The first prime minister of India, Nehru, called Bali 'the morning of the world'. Even after the Bali bombings of 2002 and 2005, for most Australians, Bali is still regarded as an easily-accessible slice of tropical paradise with the added appeal of an exotic but attractive cultural overlay. Bali attracts up to 2 million tourists a year.

But there is another side of Bali, beyond the beaches, bars and tourist brochures. And it is not beautiful or harmonious: children swimming in sewers and farmers abandoning what were once rich and productive fields to scratch a living in the richer tourist districts.

In the final of the ABC RN–BBC World Service co-production, Anita Barraud discovers how the impact of the Bali bombings, tourism, globalisation and Indonesia's transition to democracy is affecting the local politics, economy and culture of Bali and its people.

Indonesia: justice on trial

Three separate developments in Indonesia which, taken together, might indicate some huge shifts in attitudes in the post-Suharto democracy...but all this is probably still very much in the balance. This all centres around courtroom decisions. As we go to air, security is tight on Nusakambangan Island, off Central Java, where the three Bali bombers are expected to be executed.

Australia's Secret War with Indonesia

In 1965/66, Australian troops fought a covert war inside Indonesian territory in Borneo.The Australian public was not told about these cross-border operations. In fact, they were kept so secret that only a handful of Cabinet Minister knew of their existence.The soldiers themselves were under strict instructions to tell no-one - not even their wives. They kept the secret for 30 years.

Indonesia's President Suharto, his rise and fall

Suharto, the former strong man of Indonesia, died last month taking many secrets with him -- among them what really happened in the coup attempt that catapulted him to power, and how he was able to stay at the top of this volatile country for 32 years. Rear Vision looks at the long rise, the sudden fall, and the legacy of President Suharto.